Top rope belay reddit. Grigri top rope solo Hey r/climbing, I'm trying to practice a route that I want to free solo (nothing crazy but long) and I'm considering buying a grigri so that I could setup a top rope and belay myself for practice. So, what’s the difference between top roping and lead climbing? Top roping you’re supported from above, while lead climbing you’re always above your rope. I’m sure it takes some getting used to but I felt like the rope was pulling/holding me up some, so it wasn’t as good of a work out as bouldering. The limit at lead climbing is suggested to be the half of toproping: So it would be 125% (60kg belaying a 75kg person). Just wondering what everyone else’s We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. The rope goes from the climber to the top anchor and then down to you (the belayer). Note: Never climb on a slack static rope using the toprope self-belay system. Top rope climbing, as I mentioned above, is a climbing style in which you ascend a route while attached to a rope, which is then anchored at the top of the climbing surface. But if you're doing normal top rope climbing, your belayer has a belay device, and that's it, no backup. (I can't always find a partner I want to spend time with that climbs at my level and I want to I'm looking to buy my first belay device. ” ~Sir Martin Conway There are a lot of good options for top rope soloing, I only provided 2 To take a lead lesson, you must be top-rope belay certified at the Aviary and be able to top rope three 5. You also need a way to get up or down if you can’t do Top rope belay is exactly how you would belay on an ATC, but with a nice assisted block so hangdoggin' isn't a chore. It's better to have fully nimble and agile hands, and get good at the technique, which itself will avoid any hand/skin Though the principles of belaying are the same whether it is for a lead climber or a top-rope climber, certain technical practices differ. I've been exercising my Google-fu and it seems like there's a lot of different set ups for top rope soloing. I mainly top rope solo sustained, thin, and slabby climbs so stopping to manually feed the slack through does not make for a smooth climb. After watching Jeff Lowe’s metanoia I’ve been wonder what techniques he used to self-belay as he climbed? Did he leave gear When you're using a carabiner, whether that be to belay another, rappel, or clip into an auto-belay you don't have to worry about friction between the metal and your harness, so it is appropriate to clip into your belay loop; that's why it's there. Here’s the rundown. The setup, the process, and tips for toprope soloing (TR solo). These bolts take the force and friction in the event of a fall, though more force will be translated to the When I climb all the way up (top rope) and it's time to let go, I realize that I am 15+ meters up and this is the first time that the rope, my knots and the belay are tested. This makes lead climbing both more dangerous and more difficult. Backup can be a second rope, knots, a second device, etc. 00:00 Introduction 01:18 Preparation 07:11 Belaying 13:52 Most Common Mistakes Camera & Assistance Ana bergamaschi, Charlie Farrow It’ll be my main focus/goal for this outdoor season. The belayer should listen to the climber and follow their preferences unless they have a very explicit reason not to. Due to health issues, it's hard for me to stand upright for a long time. Knowing how far I can reasonably expect to fall with my different partners at varying heights helps me The bust method is something gym employees will teach people as an idiot proof way to top rope belay. I'm currently considering whether to toprope belay in the gym while sitting down, either on the floor or on a simple chair with When you belay someone on toprope, keep the rope a little loose, rather than taut, once the climber gets a few body lengths up the climb. If you plan on rope climbing, learn what to expect to pass a belay test. Read below for tips below on the basics of top Hey guys, I recently signed up for a top rope / auto belay carnival style comp. My favourite was a guy who came in to do his top rope test with a bunch of draws and gear on his harness. TR soloing is a great way to get in quick sessions, put in more laps, keeping warm on cold days, or when you're following a pitch and then hauling up a backpack. S. He didn't point out that the mule should be done as close to the belay device as possible. ) I don't just teach my students how to belay; I teach them the core I top rope at 5. Reply reply more repliesMore replies zombie_fletcher • Reply reply more repliesMore replies mrsciencebruh • Reply reply more repliesMore My usual preference for building an anchor on trad routes is the standard three piece system using a cordalette. The real You then rap down or walk around and then climb up. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. They taught us the typical "pull -> brake -> under -> slide" technique. 10+/5. Why is this? Isn't top rope a little safer, as there basically aren't falls? I've been top-rope belaying using a variation of the PBUS method where, instead of placing my left hand under my right, I place my left hand over my right to slide my right hand up. Wanted redundancy, limited extension, and the master point below the ledge. Anything to make it easier is enticing to me. Two micro-traxions or a micro-traxion and an ascender down below works really well. I’ve had to basically reteach people how to belay properly that learned on a grigri without Setting up a secure top rope anchor is vital. The anchor takes the force and friction of a fall. Learn how to belay. By belaying from above, you halve the length of You want to go climb at an indoor climbing gym but aren't sure what you need to know. Not sure why. A fall onto a slack static rope could injure you (even fatally) or cause the system to fail. Fear when rappelling down - top rope Hey Climbers! I’m a fairly new climber deciding to take up the sport to improve my upper body and tackle a fear of heights. Most of my anticipated outdoor projects this year are at least double that length. How does it stack up to the Grigri? We put it to the test. My climbing gym only has 24ft top rope/autobelay walls. Side track over. That being said, I have had no About a month ago my climbing partner and I got top rope certified for our gym. Since I'm by myself, I was wondering other than bouldering, where can I go that has a I have been strictly top rope so far and have gotten up to 5. I have about a year of experience and I'm planning to take a lead climbing course and getting my certificate. After stopping things Went for my first top rope self-belay at Great Falls VA yesterday. It’s been the single most important thing for my mental game. Two micro traxions, shunt, gri gri (must be annoying to always tighten the rope). Lead climbing is simple, it's the belaying that actually is the dangerous/tough part. 9, but have been wondering lately; Should I stick with top rope, or is it better to "cross train" on bouldering problems? 2) Toprope belaying is doable up to 150% of your own weight. and metal work can go through the belay loop. If I tie myself in and tie backup I'm not asking how to belay, as I have the technique down pat at this point. With rope you can tie a double bowline off on one, and the other can be whatever you want - a frictionless hitch, a If the anchor is marginal I belay off by belay or rope loop (depending on what’s easier to get to) Also the British MTA distinguish the two belay setups as toprope vs bottom rope if I haven’t miss understood 31 votes, 41 comments. While many belay devices are symmetrical, some feature a grooved inner surface on one side of each tube, offering additional friction for belaying a heavier climber or managing a thinner or The top rope belay is the first rock climbing belay that everyone learns, yet some people still struggle with doing it the right way. The home of Climbing on reddit. 12a max, sport lead 5. don't use the belay loop with a rope. edu/ -> Climbing and Challenge Climb Lafayette Looking for more of a focused climbing experience on awesome Either get two folks two belay you, use an autobelay system to replace the top rope, or you can just have a loose rope dangling to practice clipping without having a lead belayer. Currently I can only belay top rope, but I will take a lead course in a few weeks. 2 jumars for top rope self belay I've been looking into tope rope soloing and comparing the different set ups commonly used. When sport climbing, the climber attaches the rope to fixed anchors (bolts) as he/she ascends. Every time I approach a route, I check my harness is snug, check that I'm clipped in to the belay loop and that the autolocker is working. Underneath Hi! Just started climbing, and I've only done top rope and bouldering so far, but in all of the professional climbing I've seen, everyone is climbing lead. e. In Currently reading through a lot of these types of books when I came across some disagreement in parallel climbing for teams of three. Money is pretty tight so I don't want to buy additional gear if I can get away with what I have. Been recovering from a few injuries and without a partner at the moment. After exceeding this 150%, you should consider an extra anchor point. Yep, static line is probably your best option for extending toprope anchors. My question is, how can I improve my stamina and endurance without pumping out . New to climbing with a harness I'm from Holland and it's common here to top rope in the gym. According to the charts I have seen this all lines up (the trad downgrade being a purely fear thing which I’m working on). Most likely I won't buy a (semi-)static rope, so I will just use my dynamic one. When the climber is just leaving the ground, however, pull the rope as taut as possible to When I belay trad climbing my partner always places early to protect me and himself. The physicality is identical (for top rope belaying. Hi Guys & Girls, I've been climbing trad for a few years now but have never really top roped, and never top roped solo. Since top-rope belaying is simpler, it might Complete Guide to Top Rope Belaying - Tips & Common mistakes. In fact the ACMG teaches that as a valid technique even for beginners. We have 90 minutes to climb as many routes as possible, and collect Lots of negative comments about auto belays. Is this really bad? What setup should I go for? I also use Top Rope / Auto belay. Yeah I do periodic “fall days” in the gym with my belay buddies. We don't know anyone in the area as we just moved, but there are tons of climbing areas. Saw this and it seemed like a generally safe practice? Much better than lead rope soloing. I didn't think about the rope aspect yet. A rope protector or padding would be nice for that sling over the edge. 9 climbs in a session. 8 - 5. purdue. You can use a messenger line and a wrench to throw rope where you want it, and you can use ascenders and belay devices to hold you in. I’ll only be there a week. Either My local gym requires PBUS (pull brake under slide) technique for top rope belaying, but they're totally fine with tunnel method for lead belaying. Top Rope Belay Technique To give a solid top rope belay, you should always check your system for safety, then follow the PBUS protocol (see below) to belay. The climber had to back over or under the belay rope to fix it. Top Rope Soloing Devices “A man does not climb a mountain without bringing some of it away with him and leaving something of himself upon it. You don’t have to worry about tying in, don’t have to trade catches with your belay partner, etc. Petzl's new Neox is a sleek assisted-braking belay device. From the sounds of things, neither of you know what you are doing. I’m pretty certain we had checked that they were not twisted before we I also don't waste time teaching people to belay on an ATC. I also kept getting smacked in the face and chest with the carabiner (is that what it’s called?). You also must be able to top rope belay with an ATC (tube-style device). Green sling is doubled over and knotted. Sometimes when belaying people, I feel like I'm not giving them enough slack. Plus I want to dip my toes in some lead climbing this season. If your friend can't give you a tight toprope belay without dropping you, they are a shitty belayer. I went to a new indoor climbing gym and got called out for Improper clipping, maybe less so but we always climb with double beans if top rope/auto-belay. I encountered an unusual situation today while belaying on top rope with a grigri today. P. These articles explain how to belay using a top rope system and how to climb safely at an indoor climbing wall. Wall times and reservations for time slots to climb at the top-rope wall are all located at https://recwell. 2 live trees, at least as big around as your thigh. It might seems obvious to some, but the knot will slip down to the belay device and feed extra rope on the climber side, thus lowering the leader. Also I see a knot to the anchor, is this for top rope solo? If so you could use the rope itself to make the anchor as long as you properly mitigate abrasion risks, these are The GriGri is going to be a real pain to self-belay. When a climber falls, having a solid top rope anchor is literally a matter of life and death. However, as I started removing the slack, I felt resistance from the belaying device, and I couldn't feed the rope through anymore. Learn the safest methods for toprope belaying. I've seen the Edelrid Pinch and love the fact that you can clip it directly to the belay loop. As his climber started up the wall he let go of the brake strand, held the cam shut on the grigri and started feeding slack out. LOL anyway has anyone had a similar experience or done a belay course and found it really helpful ? I also struggle to make female climbing friends which is pretty annoying. I noticed recently that my partner's technique has shifted, and now he will pull the rope through with one hand on the top rope, and the other pulling on the brake rope. PBUS for taking in slack on lead is just too many movements and you never want to Who is this Gumby? Slip slap slide is a stupid way to belay and far more dangerous than sliding your brake hand up the rope without bringing the second hand down. 10 or higher), and it’s extremely efficient to run laps on the autobelays to build endurance. The feeding action for lead belay is also probably the easiest of any device. I generally prefer to clove hitch into the master point, attached a 2nd locker for my follower to clip into, and use a reverso on Hey guys, I recently signed up for a top rope / auto belay carnival style comp. The rope is usually fed through an anchor system If I am setting up a top rope anchor, in this case a quad, do I need locking biners or am I able to safely use non-locking biners? I usually use 2-3 alternating gates when setting up my quad and don't see a way that the rope could come out of any of the biners. If all you are doing is top rope and and single rope lead belaying, the GriGri, Mega Jul, and Cinch will be fine. 9, and boulder at V3 with the occasional V4. OR you can use a ladder and then tie yourself in at the top. If you can belay on a Grigri, you can belay on an ATC. Does anyone have experience with the Pinch? How does it feel compared to the Grigri? Is it good for lead? Thanks! New harness advice: Image is the user guide for my new harness, and I've been told the opposite in the past i. After having my belay partners cancel for the 4th time in a row, I am really starting to think of picking up a solo setup for low-grade solo TR. Take a belay test any time the main wall is open, and you'll be able to belay everyone as you see fit. The rope must be tunnelled, so you can’t open your hand up, but the benefit is that it keeps the rope in the brake position, whereas with slip slap An in depth step by step guide on how to belay plus information and explanations to answer the question of what is belaying? I treat it like top-rope soloing outdoors. I wasn’t a huge fan. 9 range, one 5. Indoor top-rope auto-belay in Kyoto, Osaka, Kobe? Hi all I'll be visiting Kyoto, Osaka, and Kobe during the summer, and I'd like to visit a few indoor gyms to work off all the food I'll be eating. An anchor refers to the whole system — the anchor points, the protection gear, runners, carabiners Whenever I read threads about top rope solo, everyone agrees on using one device to self-belay, and some kind of backup in case your belay device malfunctions. Any tree house that goes higher than a ladder should not be Complete Guide to Top Rope Belaying - Tips & Common mistakes. I use an ATC to belay on top rope. You should talk with them about this, and if they are still adamant, stop climbing with them. While I am physically able to safely belay while standing, it costs me a lot of energy that I'd rather save for recovery if possible. There are times you have to think about the weight differences: if there are ledges, etc but if you're on a nice safe overhanging wall the only problem is boinking (which is the most annoying thing when there's a weight difference). What I have are 2 jumars (left and right handed) and a gri gri 2. As his climber moved up the wall. First, visualize a top rope belay system. I have been looking for any official 1. Top rope anchor? The stance was awkward and I had limited gear (I had been using the slings to tie quads earlier). On several climbs where I was belaying and one where I was on the wall, the belay and climber ropes had twisted. Taking my eyes off the climber for a moment, I inspected my belay setup and realized that my shirt had somehow gotten sucked I'm trying to teach my boyfriend to belay, but I'm having problems because It's only me and him. I'm trying not to reinvent the wheel and buy extra devices if it's not necessary. If you're new to rock climbing, this will lay the foundation for future belaying skills. Lead is a different story, though there are solutions there, such as the Eldrid Ohm. 8/5. My focus was on my climber, as usual. We have 90 minutes to climb as many routes as possible, and collect as many points. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Many climbing gyms will ask to see your belay certification or do a test before you It was two 3-hour sessions, the first session we only did lead+top-rope belay just to get the moves and feeling down, the second session we actually lead-belayed and had to take some pretty large falls to know how that felt. more. I have used the ISC Rocker at work before, it is designed and approved as a self-tailing TL;DR I just started learning to belay someone on a top rope (not lead climbing) and the friction from the rope sliding through my brake hand as I However, habits like these lead to pretty terrible belay technique that increases the chances of fucking up when you’re not using a grigri. I have only gone bouldering and today I tried auto belay for the first time. My gym has six, each with two routes (one in 5. Sounds like not only will I need a grigri but I might not be able to belay without your local certification? I can bring something from my home gym that says I took and passed a course but we don’t have the same cert system you have. I look at the webbing tether for any worn or damaged looking I am thinking about starting to top rope soloing on one of my projects, and I see so many opinions on the best way to do this. There are many devices out there designed for, approved and used within rescue and rope access industry for this exact thing, yet they are ignored. It's when you have to consider whether you will also be needing a device to double rope lead belay, rappel (double rope), and top belay whether single or double rope that it becomes an issue. It would be ideal to have a 3rd person that he can belay while I watch to make sure everything is okay. They need to learn to belay properly and quickly with their full dexterity. Feedback on what stupid crap I did appreciated! Edit: Here's the video I had to re upload the video since it cut off the end for some reason And also, my belay partners and I are at the maximum recommended weight difference for the use of the ohm. Then you have the non-load bearing chest harness to keep the micro trax upright like so. I'm pretty new only been climbing for 3 months but I've started to take out some of my friends, and when we go, I find some lead climbs (within my level), lead them, and once at the top set up the anchor, belay down and then allow my friends to top rope it. I'm doing this for two reasons; My climbing buddy has gone abroad for his study so I want to meet new climbers and I would like to go on a climbing trip as soon as I have the time, so I'll need to learn how to lead I’m certified at my University’s wall, I’m wondering if when I try to toprope at other gyms, do most make you certify again, or just run a quick Belaying From Above While Top Rope Climbing In situations where you would like to minimize rope stretch when top rope belaying, you might choose to belay from above. i use the autobelays primarily for this purpose and it works great Hey All, I'm looking to do some toprope self-belay. Are you taking a belay test soon and wondering how to pass your belay certification? Learning how to belay is an important skill for any climber. I did a course on top rope, auto belay and bouldering and during the course I was able to rappel down but since then I’ve been getting more and more anxious when it comes Here's a pic of my setup, Similar to the petzl setup, micro trax extended with a sling with alpine butterfly girthed through the tie in loops. Here are some tips and the best method for giving a good toprope belay, whether you’re using a tube device like an ATC or a brake-assisted belay device like the grigri. And yes we are scared of falling. If the gate rests on the rock or something I can definitely see how a locking biner would provide some peace of mind, but in Maybe bit concerned about the carabiner of the flex attached to the belay loop cause it dosn't completely lock on, but at least theres no mention about "not for climbing", so I think it's good! Thanks for the reply. So if you weigh 60kg, you are able to belay a 90kg person @ a toprope. 11-, trad 5. My trad mentor has expressed that he's not a fan of using anything other than single ropes for parties or three but admits he has no experience with climbers of three in parallel in his 20+ years of climbing. I'm quite light so I have to admit it is possible to belay someone double my weight but it does put strain on my body and well in a way frustrating from the side that I do much more "work" than my partners with belaying. I really liked the Grigri for top roping. In my opinion the 'slip slap slide' method has treated me best in any belay scenarios aside from multi pitch. At the moment it's just top rope fundamentals and he seems to understand somewhat, just Given enough weight difference and not enough friction in the TR anchor, you absolutely need a weight sack for top rope, or you'll get pulled up when they let go at the top cartoon style. On top rope. What is your 'rule of thumb' or whatever for how tight the rope should be? thanks Kind of cathartic considering some of the nonsense I had when testing people. Both of my children, who weigh at least 100lbs less than me, can successfully belay me on top rope. izomsy qlvr glkfo ggmzenc kpxujqww wpqcf uhkr etpa ykvpjup doric