Best ice axe climbing reddit Has a high left foot, swings again, moves left foot out left, doesn’t look at left pon to check for good placement, proceeds to swing lightly to pull over a bulge, tool switches for no reason, then proceeds to fall. There are different tools for different jobs. It’s not rated for falls because it wouldn’t pass. More important than the brand name of the axe is buy Yvonn Chouinard's excellent book Climbing Ice. Edit: Charles Moser ice axes and 10 point Salewa ice climbing crampons. In addition pick up a pair of the pur'ice picks for the iceclimbing and then use the standard ice picks for alpinism and mixed climbing. Some are great for beginners, others for pros. You could self arrest in most conditions with it if it’s not extremely steep or use it as a grippy pole with an axe head. It works really well. Hey folks! I'm in the PDX area this weekend and next and would love to go up Hood. It’s great for cutting steps. I want to use them both on ice and mixed climbing in lower grades and also as single ice axe for skitouring, i prefer something lighter even at the cost of durability, since i wont be using them that many times in a sesons, alason something less curved and technical than nomics. She is a former member of the U. 192K subscribers in the Mountaineering community. Before you go for hood, you need to know how to self arrest, how to move properly with crampons (real ones, with real mountaineering boots), how to climb with your ice axe, how to frontpoint and how to plunge step. This sub is for tool enthusiasts worldwide to talk about tools, professionals and hobbyists alike. Mine is packed for Ice Climbing today. I'm currently looking into getting my first ice axe that fits my future endeavours best. I have a climbing harness but it's definitely rock climbing oriented. View community ranking In the Top 5% of largest communities on Reddit Gear Advice: How to choose the best ice climbing axe! Related Topics. 11K subscribers in the iceclimbing community. What have you used when they've lent you gear in the past? For general mountaineering I'd go with a very traditional style ice axe for your first one, like a BD Raven Pro or the like. Crampon spike protectors, or a large flat rate box of Black Diamond spike / ice axe protectors, hit me up. M. Amazon price $77. It's inspirational as well as instructive. I’ve measured time to exhaustion on my home wall with multiple tools and the Ergonomics definitely help to stave off the pump. I was wondering if you experienced folks ever used an Ice Tool instead of an Ice Axe for Reverse curve picks are designed for sustained climbing on steep ice. much easier to just change picks than trying to keep the ice-picks sharp while also using them on rock (they will also last way longer if you are not filling them constantly). Ice axes are crude instruments. Specifically this line always comes to mind frequently when thinking about ice climbing. There is some overlap between technical axes (like the north machine or quark for example) and ice climbing, but if you'll still end up with something not good most of the time, having the right tool for the job makes a huge difference. Going down the route of alpine axes your choices really are: Quark - best overall axe IMO Apex - heaver weight, good for bigger guys Viper - BD version of Quark The snow is too deep in the alpine for an ice axe to be useful in winter. I would bring headphones because you are staring at ice in the dark almost the whole way up, it’s a grind once you get up to 17k. Those two, non-detachable low speed quads are the best season pass you'll ever own. Obviously not a replacement for actual practice on snow/ice, but a way to get in more repetitions. I bought a couple of Petzl sum'tec ice axes and build a new head made for snow, for self arresting. Get a non-technical ice axe. Most routes involve a lot more trekking where ski poles are handy and you only need an ice axe when the terrain gets steeper. The first 1/3 of the hike is on volcanic dirt until you reach the glacier. I recently just got interested in Ice climbing, and as such I've been kind of curious about designing an ice axe as either a personal or capstone project for school. There's not much to it. Imagine sledding down a steep hill, then shoving your leg into a vice bolted to the ground near the bottom of the run. One thing to keep in mind is that your ice axe will most likely be on your backpack more than your hand. In the process I put my dropped axe about an inch into my forearm when I fell on it. Modern packs have easy ice axe slings to carry them with. Not sure how global that is. Most people aren’t doing sustained ice climbing on lines that they want to ski down. I have a belay device (figure 8 and grigri). Losing your axe in a precarious place could be bad news. An ice axe won't do anything in powder if you're falling. You need to be comfortable on snow and ice up to 45 degrees with a potentially fatal fall below you. Here is our list for general glacier travel (per person): Obviously ice axe, crampons, harness Either way here's what one of the world's best ice climbers had to say on falling while ice climbing. It's not the fanciest or lightest, but it is really durable, and has great features. But for a walk up, I'd stick with a straight axe with no grip. Once you use that one for a while and maybe come into contact with a few other types by seeing your climbing partners' gear, you might start developing some preferences and opinions about the finer points of ice 73K subscribers in the alpinism community. With so many types out there, choosing the best one is hard. However I was thinking to take it also for easy alpin climbing instead of tourist ice axe. In addition to the locations already answered, you can practice the motions of self arrest on any floor with the plastic guards on your ice axe. In this guide, we list the best ice axes for ice climbing. Its design is stylish and efficient, demonstrating a perfect blend of functionality and aesthetics in the harsh mountain climbing environment. Im not doing only ice climbing and I want to do some alpinism. Alpine or Vert. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla May 15, 2024 · On the outset, the Black Diamond Swift clearly stands out as a premium ice axe choice. I really like the Black Diamond Mission 35. When climbing or traversing steeper slopes, a shorter ice axe is easier to handle since you don't have to plunge the axe as deep and pull out 65cm of shaft then rinse and repeat. My climbing partner and I have been discussing our crevasse rescue gear and what we should be taking up for a few trips we have planned. It will work better My two cents would be to first decide what type of axe you need. It is suppose to be used in climbing on waterfalls and mixed climbing. However, I have seen that some of them have a slight curvature and some don't. I dropped one axe to self arrest onto the other. The Suluk isn’t an ice axe. S. This is a land of 13,000-foot and 14,000-foot peaks, of lakes in the thousands, and of canyons and granite cliffs. ), while other climbers I've met swear by them. Looking at updating to a 'spinner' leash suitable for two ice tools. Get an ice axe that goes to around the bottom of your I recently just got interested in Ice climbing, and as such I've been kind of curious about designing an ice axe as either a personal or capstone project for school. Available in Europe (per pair): Petzl Nomic €370 DMM Switch €450 Grivel Tech Machine €440-460 BD Reactor €460 BD Fuel €430-480 Nov 15, 2024 · We love the Nomic for its performance on vertical ice, but our testers found the Hydra to take steep ice climbing to a new level thanks to its incredible modularity, perfect balance, and best-in-class ice penetration. But its really just personal preference. I plan to learn ice and mix climbing this winter. I bought those ice axes in a good price (120 USD) however I'm thinking if it's may be bad for learning. Regarding ice axes don't get hung up on the old "it needs to reach your ankles" too much - I personally rather take a slightly more technical (bent & shorter) ice axe, because it will be more versatile in the long run. 7; Weight (ounces): 16. They are primarily a balance aid, or self arrest tool in case of a slip, and generally not used for actual extended climbing. Hello everyone, this is going to be my first season ice climbing and I am deciding on which ice axes to get. They're all pretty light. Makes plunging the axe easier as well. I would describe it more as a hike, you really don’t need an ice axe but they make you carry one. I’d recommend looking at used, since many people buy long, straight axes and then realize they want something more aggressive. You just need something sized for comfort. Thanks in advance 85 votes, 20 comments. For a few of the guys it's training for the summer mountaineering season in the New Zealand Alps. That’s what ice tools are for. I've taken a 6 day intro mountaineering course and have done easy snow/glacier climbs (e. Business, Economics, and Finance. For fans of ice climbing. We thought it would be fun to see what you all think is "essential" and made your crevasse rescue gear list. So far as simply losing a tool what you want is a "tether" rather than an old-school wrist leash. And a classic straight ice axe will always be better for glacier travel and self arrest. We welcome posts about "new tool day", estate sale/car boot sale finds, "what is this" tool, advice about the best tool for a job, homemade tools, 3D printed accessories, toolbox/shop tours. So, I would recommend the Falk or similar for climbs that are ~50 degrees or less and are likely to only require a single axe. I'm looking for more technical ice axes and I can't decide. I hope this man is open to some form feedback and teaching because that looks more like rock climbing than ice climbing. I just wanted to generally ask people their thoughts on general features and designs of axes such as what style blade, handle grip, shaft angle, eyelet, and spike they may prefer The John Muir Trail passes through what many backpackers say is the finest mountain scenery in the United States. I will use them for indoor/outdoor drytool, steeper ice and mix. When traversing a really steep slope you kind of stick it in at a 45 degree angle into the uphill side so it's out in front of you and you can hold it with both hands while you shift one foot at a time. g. It also keeps you safe on technical climbs. How important is it to have curved ice tools? Is it possible to climb with glaciers comfortably? Thanks in advance! The UIAA technical ice axe standard only requires the shaft to be as strong as a snow picket (ie not that strong— 2. Petzl Gullys or SumTecs are really neat in that regard. 4 days ago · Best Modular Ice Axe: 5. But it’s not for climbing. But it sounds like you'll be wanting a alpine axe. Whilst not specifically ice climbing related, what’s everyone’s top picks for a mixed technical axe that can have picks swapped out to ice? Preferably not insanely expensive, so no more than £400 for a pair. Nearly every simple ice-axe on the market today climbs as well as the old classic Chouinard piolet, with which masters were climbing WI6 back in the 1970s. A few guides I've met have said leashes can do more harm than good (discouraging you from moving the axe from one hand to the other, etc. If you're a begginer and just going to do some laps on snow, there's no need for an ixe axe. You need to stick the ice axe into the snow to do that while hiking, and you shouldn't be doing that with an ice climbing axe's handle. I think it's a combination of a few things. , Orizaba, MSH during early spring, etc. 100% agree with this. We have the Ergonomics rather than the older Ergos. You can’t use it as an anchor for climbing. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. There is also a huge risk to carrying an ice axe while riding. I know there isn't the perfect allround model but i still have to start somewhere. If you start climbing steep stuff, then look at the venom. I own one. Michael Covington is on the cover climbing Mt Kilimanjaro I believe. Ice Climbing Team and has climbed up to WI5 and M12- around the Colorado Rockies. The reverse curve makes the pick easier to remove from hard ice. 54; Best for ice climbing and technical mountaineering; Length (inches): 21. I would just get the Quarks. She is a volunteer climbing instructor at The Ice Coop, Colorado’s only dedicated ice-climbing gym, where she does much of her training. Any recommendations? Based in the UK! Will primarily be using for mixed and winter climbing. Ideally, you never have to arrest, but you likely will want protection on the steeper slopes. Heading out to Blue Lake in Kosciuszko National Park, Australia's ice climbing crag 1. If you plan on climbing really steep stuff a curve can help stop the pick coming out. I just wanted to generally ask people their thoughts on general features and designs of axes such as what style blade, handle grip, shaft angle, eyelet, and spike they may prefer For general mountaineering and not climbing steep ice, I'd just go with the black diamond raven. Something like the BD Spinner leash (yes it's confusing) or Cassin's X-Gyro that attaches the tools to your harness, but still allows you to climb in "leashless" style ie match, switch hands, traverse. Also just for the easier to get replacement picks. Any suggestions on metal type, or how much something like this could cost We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. It tells the items story much Hello, back at it again with the climbing cache. However, wanting to know how they will do for general mountaineering? Mostly the crampons as I also just got a used mountaineering axe. The major drawback from using a leash is that you need to change your leash hand every time your ice axe changes hands. 6; Aluminum shaft; Both Stainless steel head and spike; Modular head; Slightly curved shaft; Check Petzl Sum'Tec Adze prices:- Backcountry, REI, Amazon, Moosejaw Whatever long axe you can afford will serve you well. What I've seen so far: Black Diamond Spinner Leash Blue Ice Hydra Leash DMM Freedom Leash I just bought a set of used ice climbing axes/crampons just because Ice Climbing is what I have more of in the Midwest. Would be cumbersome. The patina built up over the years is the physical manifestation of the time an item has sat somewhere. “Mixed climbing” uses ice tools on rock and ice. Used for attaching your ice axe to your wrist and preventing the ice axe from disappearing down a long slop if you drop it. ). I see a good deal on Petzl Glaciers, however, it seems that curved ice axes are preferred. Just use your imagination and move your body around the axe manually. I was walking on a steep side hill once during ice pitches and I slipped. Technical ice tools are pretty great for climbing steep technical ice but suck for just about anything else. I'd like to either make sure my equipment is compatible with mountaineering or in the case of the rope - I'd like to purchase something more oriented toward mountaineering vs rock climbing. For reference I'm 6' and use a 55cm axe. 5kn bending strength in the test configuration, although realworld in a snow anchor is higher since the load is more evenly spread)— some tools definitely exceed the standard with forged/milled one piece shaft construction, but I absolutely wouldn’t use the shaft as a Looking to have some ice axe heads smith'd out by a local blacksmith. Feb 12, 2024 · Finding the best ice axe can be tricky. Some work best on vertical ice, others on mixed terrain. Honestly, 50L is really big for most ice climbing adventures. To find the right length ice axe based on your size, hold it while standing upright and relaxed with your arms by your sides. If you want a large flat rate box with 52 C. In parralel, I am actually looking to pursue my other training in ice climbing. So i have one axe for everything. Climbing on a glacier while carrying an ice axe, crampons, wearing heavy mountaineering boots, and being roped in and forced to maintain a pace that is not your own is much more The primary use of an ice axe is protection against a fall, secondary is self arresting. Non sketchy but would like a bit of a nicer hold while climbing - whippet Sketchy to point of needing one tool - ice axe Pretty sketchy with one tool - ice axe and whippet Two tools required - steep to near vertical ice Remember ice axe = boot crampons and a helmet. For less steep terrain I like a shorter ice axe with a curved handle. Hello, I currently own a pair of Quarks for ice and a simpler mix. I no longer have a rope (it's retired). I love the external crampon pouch, and use it for big water bottles in the summer climbing season. I have heard mixed opinions about having a leash on your ice axe (we're talking general mountaineering ice axes, not ice tools for ice climbing). Reddit's OG off-piste sub for all things backcountry skiing/splitboarding. I have seen there is a wide variety of ice axes, mainly I assume I am interested in a more general purpose one such as the Petzl Summit or the BD Raven Grip. See full list on outdoorgearlab. If you’re set on a “walking” ice axe, 60cm is the absolute limit for vertical progression— any longer is just too cumbersome. As such, don’t fall into the trap of getting a “cane”. The average ice axe will be between 50cm and 75cm. Twynam, with a group of 6. We compare features, uses, and value. Jan 29, 2015 · I don't agree that most manufacturers' ice-axe offerings are good for nothing more than easy glacier work and ski-mountaineering. Climbing has been testing a pre-production model since last December, where we swung them on long multi-pitch flows around Cody The terminology I've heard in my circles, btw, is a "leash" is the old-school style that goes around your wrist and is meant to be weight bearing instead of gripping the axe while a "tether" is the non-weight bearing thing that goes to your harness to protect against a dropped axe/tool. P. So far i did a lot of hiking, ferratas (D) and easy climbing (UIAA 1-2, without rope) around 2500m in the austrian alps. Jan 28, 2025 · Corey is a freelance writer and editor based in Boulder, CO. 9 pounds. It is measured from the tip of the axe to the top of the head. First advice I’d give is to ensure your kit is sufficient, the top third of the tourist trail was non-climbable last year without winter gear, crampons and ice axes, so if you do ensure you’re prepared for winter mountaineering rather than hiking. PETZL Sum'Tec Ice Axe. It'll be easier to walk with and easier to get used to as a first timer. The most important factor of an ice axe is its length. The box of spike and ice pick protectors weighs about 10. Doing this sport, i have ice tools instead of ice axes. I learned the Self Arrest method with an ice axe. We're planning to walk in from Guthega and camp for three nights on Mt. The Ergonomics with the Pur’Ice pick are possibly the best tool for steep ice and mixed climbing. I am much faster with resetting my self-belay when using a shorter ice axe thus my preference for my 50cm shorter ice axe when doing scrambles but no roped glacier travel. This is to say that I will be using an ice axe for both climbing steep slopes and as a hiking pole. Longer axes will facilitate descending and downclimbing. Weather can also be quite difficult and unforgiving on Ecuadorian volcanos, so you’ll have to be prepared to encounter hail, strong winds, whiteout conditions, etc. A. 22 votes, 10 comments. com Jan 17, 2024 · Best Mountaineering Axe: Petzl Summit Evo Ice Axe; Best Value Technical Ice Tool: Trango Raptor Ice Axe; Best Value Mountaineering Axe: Grivel G1 Ice Axe; Best Size Range in Mountaineering Axes May 1, 2025 · The right axe gives better grip and control. Something like that used to be the standard before ice-axes took over. jnknqi xnbqemh lxdl mibqz mggd rkarnnf erol zplov ufyu fhtt