Simul climbing fall reddit Thinking of doing Royal Arches and people have said to save time, it is better to simul or solo the easy parts in the beginning. See the 2002 Mt. I have actually seen a simul fall on royal arches but it was of little consequence though. " A year later, she scatters his ashes from the top of the radio tower. Rumor is that the climbers were very close together on the route when the fall occurred, suggestive of a simul-climb accident or possible anchor failure. 9+, also East to West ridge of Forbidden. Or just clips directly into bolts (sport). On their ropes solo page they even say that the tibloc needs to be manually pressed into the rope to work properly. This is probably to protect the follower on a hard Crux on an otherwise easy route. Posted by u/moreannefrank - 12 votes and 18 comments Oct 12, 2024 · Simul climbing, also known as climbing with a running belay, is a climbing method or style where all the climbers climb at the same time while tied into the same rope. Yes simul climbing can be safer than but like 70% of simul climbers I see are putting themselves in more danger. We don't want to solo, but we are fine with simul-ing considering the grade of the pitches (4th class to 5. The idea is rather than arrest a fall, if there is a slip, you tug them into the mountain where friction stops the fall immediately. Simul-climbing is a fast and efficient way to keep the team moving on easy and varied terrain. I fall a lot, and am afraid that punting myself to death over and over is gonna mess with irl climbing headgame. When you simul-climb you place sparse pro but these guys are really pushing the limit, so what they do falls outside the realm of "normal" simul-climbing. The more rope between the second and the leader, the less the impact force of a fall is because there's more rope length to stretch. The climbing was so easy that he didn't bother putting any gear in. One thing to also keep in mind for simul in the alpine is that you can only set protection at very high points. She fell, and hit a bunch of stuff on the way down before the rope caught her. That’s basically it. Another option (if there's anything else on the route where you would want a belay) is to bring a 60m half rope for the simul climbing, and you can double it up as a 30m double rope for hard stuff. in a gym? sure. This is inaccurate because it violates the Leave No Trace ethic. Again, I want to emphasize that there is nothing "normal" about simul-climbing. 5th class routes on good rock tend to follow crack systems or bolts so you can often place more and the rock can be steep enough that a fall could be clean. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Kiwi coiling to shorten the rope is most appropriate for applications like simul-climbing chill terrain or short-roping, where you don’t want loose rope dragging over the rock as you both move, and you want to be able to let out rope if you need to. But if both climbers fall at the same time in steep terrain you can have a lot of rope stretch and it’s pretty easy to damage your rope over edges with that kind of load. Still, if there are thousands of feet of air right behind him, yikes. on funky slab climbing outdoors where huge holds aren’t bolted on…not really. If falling is a serious concern it's a much better idea to pitch it out. New York Times reports they were simul climbing. (Expensive and dangerous). As for the system being shock loadeud if the lower bolt pulled? You still have the entire length of dynamic rope going to the follower. g: climbing pitch-by-pitch would result in getting hit by a storm or stranded overnight). It means going smoothly around stuff Here, it means that the rope must be put on the pieces of rock in order to ease stopping the fall of one of the climber. We started out this way, which turned into trimul (or simul) climbing to skip the first anchor (Yosemite way) so we could get to the second anchor. Basically simul climbing but with 3 people. and there are plenty of bars and beams to clip into. My point is that at times I was thinking: if I fall here he will NEVER be able to hold that fall. Luckily the half ropes catch on some rock and stop the fall, otherwise he might have decked out. It's a dangerous form of climbing meant only for when the team is moving over terrain they are 100% confident climbing. It is extremely high risk, and frankly is not a skill that should be used except by guides, or people who have actually trained short roping. It’s “weather” if you count all of mountaineering, slip-and-falls in rock climbing specifically, and you can’t even count rappelling as “while climbing” because it’s not while climbing. they were climbing using a risky technique called simul climbing that would allow them to climb faster, but mistakes mean longer falls and more chance of injury. It's a risky technique in an already risky sport. These will stop a follower fall from affecting the leader. The Peckers quiet the bells a little, but the climbing above stays intricate and insecure. The home of Climbing on reddit. Yeah, in case of a fall it might cut the sheath of the rope, but it will prevent a possible deathly fall of the leader, if the second falls. In theory, this still keeps an acceptable margin of safety and the gear they have between them will stop them from coming off the wall. . A fall simul climbing is not a safe fall, can a lot of times still be deadly, but now you’re bringing your partner down with you. Slipping isn’t a big risk, but a tumble… My mind always goes to thirty feet of rope, simul-climbing with two pieces of pro between you. 88 votes, 66 comments. The real foolishness though is people "simul-climbing" on snow without any anchors. I would build a proper anchor for belaying a leader. If you are unroped, you have only your pickaxe to stop you. The climbing was suspect from the very beginning with the so called 'expert' couple simul climbing something that difficult and vertical so close together with only a single piece of gear between them. Reply reply More replies Seems strange that petzl recommends the tibloc for simul climbing when it seems to be one of the worst devices for that purpose. Meru (and El cap also) uses a technique called aid climbing, where removable gear is used to make progress instead of hands and feet. But, for example, if you are on a rock edge, and you climb with somebody with the same climbing level as you, it can be a danger to climb with a short rope. If the route is very easy (more like using the hands while walking) and the leader has more experience than the second (the typical case is when a beginner does a tour with a mountain guide) , you let 1 meter rope between both climbers Sep 5, 2024 · This would be a disastrous place to fall. Anything at this point is conjecture though, so beyond that initial rumor I won’t be saying anything else until we know more. The climber places removable protection (called trad climbing) and clips the rope into that to arrest the fall. 6 because it’s beginner-level climbing. the 5. Most notable was the Complete North Ridge of Stuart that's a full on Grade 4 5. Rapping in the dark sucks. Microtrax is amazing for a few things: rope solo (duh) groups of 3 (ehhhhh) simul climbing (for sure) But I have never felt a want or need to use it as a belay device because I generally have a belay device on me, and because if the follower were to fall, especially on steep terrain, it's much more difficult (in my opinion) to lower to a stance safely. When we simul we often dont use any pcd at easy terrain but put one in after a hard / crux section. weird flex. Skip to main content. Both sides of the rope are now fixed. Unfortunately the party ahead kicks of some lose rock and it hits him. I find simul climbing works best with 30m of rope out, we double the rope over with an "alpine girth hitch" at the mid point. I'm not that knowledgeable about what these guys are doing. Realistically, if the terrain can be simul-climbed, then generally the climbers accept the chance of a fall. But they literally only clip a rope to each of their harnesses! not to anything solid. Simul climbing is generally done to save the time of on long sections If he had just clipped these it would have made me feel much more comfortable. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Simul-climbing. Instead of an axe to arrest a fall, they keep some pieces of gear between them as they climb. Basically it's liking climbing with mental pro. Two ropes is the way to go for “real” climbing. Protection is placed by the first member of the rope team and the last member removes the pieces of gear. It's not rock climbing - it's two women climbing a radio tower. 1. Put your partner on rappel with the tube closest to the anchor. PSA: If you're even CONSIDERING rock climbing, first watch "The Fall (2022)" so you know the risks comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment supreme_leader420 • I want to emphasize that falling on easy stuff, even with a rope, is serious as there it lots to hit and not much gear. Because if the leader fall down, the second cannot stop his fall and they will be both dead. The main character’s husband falls to his death after unclipping from his simul-climbing partner in a technique known as "unclipping so you can reach slightly lower. In general I use simul climbing when it's easy enough to solo, but the exposure would without a doubt cause death in a fall. Pros of Simul Raps: Less time rappelling. If they are simul climbing, then they are climbing way below their limit. The nose speed record is a "by all means necessary" style of climbing, not many rules except probably no jet packs ;) the team gets from the bottom to the top as fast as possible by free soloing, simul climbing, the second climber jugging up the rope, aiding through difficult sections, etc. I don’t care super much about realism as long as I still feel like I’m mountain CLIMBING. They just guarantee that both will fall if one does. Feb 4, 2025 · Normally you need to find a spot to either sling a tree or set a two piece 'anchor' to attach the ropeman to so allow for multidirectionality while preserving the proper direction of pull should the need for it to stop a simul fall exist. Personally, I don't think it's a good idea to use pickets simul climbing ( in most cases). Simul-climbing, or a running belay, is where both people climb at the same time but usually a rope distance between each other (generally little to no slack in the system). And yes we are scared of falling. Dune is a landmark science fiction novel first published in 1965 and the first in a 6-book saga penned by author Frank Herbert. - Mike Powers Posted by u/tinyOnion - 128 votes and 28 comments Simul climbing From Wikipedia: Simul climbing or climbing with a running belay is a climbing method or style where both climbers, climb at the same time while tied into the rope. In simul climbing the better climber is at the bottom. One of the ropes even fails when arresting the fall like that. Doesn't tell us why the initial fall happened but explains why it resulted in both of them falling to the earth. The verb "louvoyer" has no direct translation that I know. The length of rope used during simul climbing varies but is often between 15 and 30m. When simul climbing a follower fall is typically more dangerous than a lead fall Sounds pretty normal for that type of climbing. I mantle the hook and find a stem from which I can hammer in two decent Pecker pitons. Its the most simple rap to set up. Two people on the end of one rope works great for lower angle easy climbing. I rarely see people putting adequate protection while still being faster than pitching it out. He falls a good twenty meters. I use it as a progress capturing device for simulclimbing in 4th and easy 5th class terrain. You don't even need a knot. just struck me as a strange direction to take the story, as if people wouldn’t fall on a 5. It’s more akin to a dog leash on a nervous dog, than simul climbing. Hood disaster where one party clotheslined several others off. The peak has got to be snowy too. They were simul-climbing. If they aren't then I think the route isn't for them. Both leader and follower obviously have to be on teh same level. com Jan 20, 2022 · A scenario more realistic to the simul-climbing situation would be the follower falling 1m with 30-60m of rope absorbing the impact, a more mild fall factor of 0. Posted by u/soupyhands - 1,165 votes and 27 comments 25 votes, 21 comments. The whole idea of simul-climbing is to save time, so using many of these devices, especially prusik hitches, ends up not saving any time at all. Protection is placed by a pseudo-leader and the second removes the pieces of gear. I must embrace the ringing while climbing through another runout, eventually finding a bad hex placement in a flared water runnel. Read about it here, here, and here. Open menu Open navigation Go to Reddit Home 1. Ofc I understand that belaying would have taken far too long, but simul-climbing would have been more befitting the situation in my opinion. You're also spending less time doing the most statistically dangerous part of climbing. I wonder if anyone out there is familiar with this technique I saw a few people using on Bosigran Ridge in Cornwall, England recently. The number one rule of simul climbing is don’t fall. Seems like this game could reasonably capture some of the specific kinds thrill and challenge feelings as climbing—like the feeling of a deadpoint, where you’re tenuously holding body tension while winding up and then swinging for it while perfectly balance precision and power—without actually feeling like you’re really pulling on rock. They are very lightweight so it's reasonable to take 3-4 per party which allows simul-climbing for longer distances. 7), but I believe those suggestions are for people in pairs. Reply reply More replies I have actually simul climbed some longer alpine routes with a 60m half rope doubled over as twins. Yeh, I think “realistic” is kind of a vague term. Even worse since you're now a danger to others around you. looks like good times, tho tbh i find gopro climbing videos really uncomfortable to watch: way too bouncy, and largely lacking context. 03 or less, which would impact a micro-traxion placed in the system far less. See full list on brentbarghahn. The person is a Simul Climbing is Most Useful: - On long, easy routes when it is safer to move fast (e. So the follower can fall at this section without tying out the leader. Otherwise they will climb using normal belay tactics. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. I’m looking for games that make you feel like your truly climbing a mountain, although some fantasy and/or sci-fi elements would be cool to, however not necessary. At the presented technique of the blog im asking, if slack between the grigri and the backup knot could stuck while climbing. 16 votes, 10 comments. Plus, could put in 2 player, have a belayer with various stats, including amount of beta spraying, attention to their climber, beanie tightness, etc Posted by u/soupyhands - 5 votes and 82 comments At one point in the film when Dean Potter and his partner got the record, you can hear Dean below as they are simul climbing the last pitch yell "No gear, don't fall", which one can only assume means he had taken out the last piece and they were both essentially soloing, attached to nothing but each other. In addition to what others have mentioned (as a normal person) you place progress capture devices, such as a petzl micro traxion, on your cams periodically. 134 votes, 49 comments. You rap on either line (to be super slick about it, you can stay tied into your figure 8 and rap on that side to be rapping on a closed system), get to the next anchor, tether in, your partner raps. Widely considered one of the greatest works within the sci-fi genre, Dune has been the subject of various film and TV adaptations, including the Academy Award winning 2021 film Dune directed by Denis Villeneuve. Dec 23, 2022 · Simultaneous climbing (simul-climbing) and short-fixing are advanced techniques that can help experienced climbers when attempting in-a-day ascents on grade V and VI routes on big walls and in the high country. "assurance en mouvement" is simul climbing, meaning that both climbers climb at the same time. Everyone was climbing at the same time. After a full day of climbing the difference in 2 hours of rapping vs 4 can be pretty big if you're pushing daylight or exhausted. - On a long, exposed approach or descent when a fall is very unlikely, but the consequences would be severe. Basically just a suicide pact at that point since there's no way you can arrest a fall in that scenario. The length of rope used du These are more alpinism techniques than regular climging, keep in mind that falling is forbidden, a fall has a non zero probability to kill the whole party. And in that case, it isn't enough. 78K subscribers in the alpinism community. I know there's a couple different options for climbing in a group but the method I want to use is to have the leader tie into two ropes, lead the pitch, build the anchor, and then have the followers simul-climb while the leader has them on auto-block. There were two… 1. 6 on the 1st is on smears and small handholds. I watched Fall (2022) randomly on a flight earlier this year and oh wow. Posted by u/AutoModerator - 6 votes and 19 comments First time doing this was on Snake Dike up Half Dome. Most experienced mountaineers should be comfortable climbing on 45-50 degree slopes. asooup gjp syvcx agod abpzo jkcuz uhy uqngwza tothu rbl