Sliding x anchor reddit The take home message, don't take a 30m whipper on top rope with a static rope and a static belay, and your knotted sling anchor will be fine. odds are you won't be yanking the anchor off-axis unless you are in the alpine, in which case you wouldn't be asking this question. It really doesn't work IRL due to clutch effect (except maybe with a slippery quad and anodized carabiners). But if you're top roping all day on one anchor, the quad is the best option. When I climb multi-pitch with bolted anchors, like in Squamish (on some routes) and elsewhere, I use the tied sliding x exclusively, and pre-tie the anchor. the no extension thing is not that important as you have 60m of stretchy rope out there so you are not really "shock loading" the anchor. Others say that the extension does not cause any significant shock load in the system. There was a helpful video I saw a couple years ago that was in a slideshow format that was put on by some canadian mountaineering club or something… Skip to main content. 24 kN force while toproping the anchor would be just about at its breaking point. Would be fine for two bomber bolts (nothing else) but save yourself untying the knots after they’re weighted and just use the sliding x, or better yet two draws. 1. (the sliding x is not redundant in the sling). "We did a lot of testing with Sterling and found that binding was a bigger factor than first suspected, especially with sliding X, where a sling is basically hitched around the biner, less so on somethng like a quad, where anchor point biners are clipped though a comparatively wide loopMost of the elaborate rigging systems are of little use A sliding anchor with three points doesn't even theoretically distribute the load. Say I've arrived at a two-bolt anchor, but I'm not 100% sure the bolts are bomber. Hanging belayer weight 65kg. The 3/16" anchors mentioned sound like your standard plastic insert type anchors, not fantastic but should work fine. There is a difference between an anchor for abseilling and an anchor for climbing. Some of the anchors in your photos are absolutely overly complicated. Advantages and Disadvantages of the Sliding-X Photo 1: Advantage - When anchors are off-set, the sliding-x self-equalizes. The main point will still be able to self equalize by sliding and, should one of the two points of protection pull, the remaining point of protection Agreed. I like to use a cordalette and build an anchor with 3-4 pieces and a big pre-equalized master point. This keeps you from getting pulled left and right depending on the way the wind blows and the nose goes and gets the leash out of your hand. " Reading it, I got it right away, but hadn't thought of it. Crypto Nothing wrong with Sliding X on main Anchor, but please check it properly, YOUR SLIDING X IS NOT CORRECT!!! Each anchor has to have a rope from both sides of the schakle (your #1, and #4 do not have it) To set up the anchor really clean, I would not use main and backup schakle through both anchors. The sliding-X is designed to provide dynamic equalisation between a pair of redundant anchors with a single carabiner. This maintains a lower force on each piece, therefore decreasing the likelihood of anchor point failure. The jury is still First off, I have a few styles of TR anchor that I use like: steel carabiners on the end of each chain (fast, convenient), or a sliding x with… Skip to main content Open menu Open navigation Go to Reddit Home Also tests have shown that even a percectly equalised sliding x system does not fully equalise the load simply becuase of the tensions involved. This has generally been sufficient for the multi-pitch routes I've done. Thread the cord directly trough the pitons/what ever and in case one blows, the knot might slip(and even absorb energy while doing so), but the chance of the piece pulling through the knot is quite low. com Sliding-X: The sliding-x method for equalizing anchor points configures the sling in such a way that if one anchor point were to blow, the entire anchor would not completely fail. The sliding X had been shown to not dynamically equalize since sometime in the 1980s. There is much controversy around the Sliding X due to the possible extension, and is sometimes referred to as the "Death X" by detractors. I'd also have the best angle possible between the two legs, minimizing the forces on each bolt. 66=10. I would personally not be comfortable with this setup as a sole-source anchor. I think tests by Long and Jim Titt bear this out. An additional and in my opinion slightly better anchor for 2 bolts is the quad. That being said, I still use a master point anchor 90% of the time on trad. This is especially useful when equalizing marginal pieces of lead protection. as something to connect to an anchor while standing on a ledge, however, while on rappel this would suffice. I also don't have any sport draws, so it works out. Nice and efficient changeovers. EXAMPLE: You set a sliding -X on a two bolt anchor and one of the bolts is rusty and blows out. You are aware of this, right? When you abseil you are seldom going to significantly increase the load on your anchor. Some say the Sliding X's extension can shock load the anchor with enough force to break carabiners. The document has moved here. The home of Climbing on reddit. I'm surprised it isn't clearer in the Climbing Anchors book, but I don't have mine handy to review. For an anchor, all I have is my trusty double-length sling. don't get cordelette if you plan on trad climbing later, John Long is an awesome climber, 30 damn years ago, climbing has gone a long way since, cordelette is the slowest, most noob anchor ever, build your anchors out of slings, it will be much more versatile and faster in the future and getting familiar with this type of anchor in easy waters There is much controversy around the Sliding X due to the possible extension, and is sometimes referred to as the "Death X" by detractors. This method offers extremely good equalization, but fails in reducing extension in the event of an anchor failure. I've never used it for the reasons you point out, but the idea is still floating around out there. Open menu Open navigation Go to Reddit Home Open navigation Go to Reddit Home If you're going to toprope anchor only, it might be better to get a length of 10mm static line. Moved Permanently. You will need: Mar 13, 2016 · I've never liked the 'Pre Equalized Anchor; AKA Cord-o-lette, instead opting for a version of the two-point self-equalizing, sliding X anchor backed up with a third independent anchor using sewn spectra slings. Something between 30 and 60 ft. The main advantage of using a self-equalizing anchor is that it continues to distribute the load equally between the anchor pieces as the loading direction changes. You can use dyneema slings in a redundant anchor but you would need multiples. If you want a cordelette for multi-pitch, I'd recommend 7mm X 20 ft. The cordelette is the go to for >2 piece anchors, bolts or not. And of course it's up to judgment when to use each both. Basically I typically have a figure eight going into a locker at one anchor, the static is extended over the cliff and I double it back to create a doubled up figure eight on a bight (opposing lockers on the business end and a third locker behind to secure the double and for any shelf clipping) then my other anchor side is tied with a clove so The sliding X anchor does not satisfy the No Extension part of the SERENE anchor test. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. 30 votes, 109 comments. See full list on climbtallpeaks. I build sliding anchors with 2 bomber pieces and a third piece clipped to a one as a backup, so it's not really an issue for me. Open menu Open navigation Go to Reddit Home Open navigation Go to Reddit Home for a two point anchor just clip the anchor on the two points with normal biners, lockers if you are having a TR setup for multiple runs, tie an overhand or figure 8 to make a redundant masterpoint, and done. I can set up a fully equalized dynamic anchor that fails at over 22kn (according to Black Diamond's lab) in under a minute. There's a trade off between eliminating shock loading should one piece fail when using a cordelette, and equalization when using a Sliding X. Climb safe! Posted by u/sodathief - No votes and 11 comments Or you can use a sliding X setup. The main advantages of using the rope (slightly faster, less gear such as extra slings/cord) are outweighed by the advantages of a separate equalized anchor in these three situations - Jun 22, 2021 · However, note that an anchor with 2 unquestionably strong anchor pieces is the exact scenario where you don't need equalization! So, the one time it might be safe to use a quad, is the main time you don't need the only purported benefit of a quad (the equalization). Super bomber (35+ Kn), equalised, and yes is more cumbersome to make. Made this anchor, and thought I'd get some feedback on it. Even 3 bolt anchors with long slings get hairy with a sliding x. If the pieces are far from each other, I might build a mini anchor (sliding X) on 2 of the pieces w/ a double length sling to extend them a bit. 13 votes, 13 comments. Alpine draw (single or double depending on bolt anchor spacing), clip bolts and extend sling, sliding X with a locker. I like it since it's quick, easy, uses only one draw, and is perfectly safe. So let's go back to our calculated 17kN on the anchor. I believe that, due to clutch effect, in the split second of impact it really doesn't adjust as well as we hope it would. 26 votes, 28 comments. So my partner and I were going over our gear and we were talking about building anchors, and the point came up about locking… This is 100% a MYTH. 26 votes, 86 comments. It's dealing with the rope, especially if you aren't switching leads. And, in this case, op can ditch 2 whole dogbones and non lockers, put two non lockers on the bolts (these can be lockers or just one can or niether) clip the sling (paying attention so the stitching is out of the way (I clove hitch the stitching to the Posted by u/Tradhappy - 4 votes and 10 comments The sliding X can play an important role in load distribution, for example to distribute load between two weaker pieces in a more complex anchor system like the one in the first photo under the section called "The Myth of Equalization" in that link. After reading this article, I am seriously thinking about changing to the Quad anchor, In my opinion an equalized sling/cord/sliding x is better than using the rope in almost any multipitch anchor. Connecting 2 pieces is super easy: shoulder length sling, sliding X. No need to equalise two bolts perfectly, I leave that for gear anchors where I use the Equalette-3. I've seen this a few times in some books as a way to build a self-equilizing 3 point anchor (the 3 point extensions of a 2 point sliding x). With this door anchor you can quickly and smoothly adjust your training position. If you put the limiting knots in close enough you can make it so that the master point has only a couple of inches of slide, just enough to equalize, but not enough to cause a catastrophic failure. Single leg failure gave 40% higher force than the same test with no extension. I usually use a few draws at the top for sport but a pre tied quad is very fast. I made myself the “ultimate” door anchor and would love to share the instructions with you. However, we move relatively slowly and it has time to adjust. If you've got two carabiners, you can achieve superior equalisation much more easily by just clipping one biner to each strand of the sling or one strand of each sling if you're doubling up. We move about and the masterpoint seems to adjust. 5 tech cord but more versatile. This can be solved by adding "limiter knots" approximately 6" from either side of the sliding X's main point. You should always make the best anchor you can with what you have. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. But when you're only making one or two anchors a day it doesn't matter to spend 3 minutes more to We bring a tie down for time at camp, and when walking attach him to our waist with a 6’ leash and a sliding x anchor system attached to our waist straps on the pack. Photos 2 & 3: Disadvantage - If one of the bots fails, then the sliding-x anchor will "extend", which means the anchor point will travel down the length of the webbing until it stops, which will increase the impact force on the remaining bolt. Then they are good to go. . Agreed non extension is far more important, especially with dyneema anchor. It's a sliding X with limiter knots, for top rope use. Sporto anchor in a can. If one somehow blows a piece in their top rope anchor (again, set good pieces and this should never happen), the extension in the anchor is equivalent to the climber falling the same distance onto the rope. The phrase "good enough" should be reserved for alpine/aid/etc. Posted by u/handsomebutinsane - 1 vote and 15 comments NE - No Extension - Anchors should be built so that if one or more of the components fail the remaining components won't be shock loaded As you may have noticed the 2 quickdraws are even better at "redundancy" and "no extension" than a sliding x with one sling, but most climbers think a sling in a sliding x is safe enough. When you climb, you need the anchor to withstand a factor 2 fall. If you put limiting knots on your sliding X then you will not necessarily overload the system in the case that an anchor bolt fails. Bulkier than 5. What's my best best for an anchor? A sliding-X would make the anchor perfectly equalized, but extensible. While the setup is not desirable, it seems to be a personal connection to an anchor. The jury is still Yeah this isn’t really any safer than a plain sliding x because the knots aren’t limiting extension, and is actually weaker because of the knots in the material. Take my advice with some scepticism, and hopefully someone else will respond with more applicable experience. A 7-8mil nylon cord would be a better choice for making anchors in general and when you get more experience you can figure out what's worth saving weight on. Do any of you guys double… Posted by u/trollhawk - 2 votes and 23 comments Looks like a variation of an tirolian anchor, which I use quite often on non bomber anchors, but with a 6mm aramid cord. beenOutsmarted is correct in this not being an ADT. the reason you want to have the middle loops a decent size is so your anchor equalizes and by shortening the distance between the knots you shorten the direction of pull degrees Here's a test from the DAV using a sliding X to equalize an anchor: 5m drop, 80kg, dynamic rope belayed with HMS on sliding X with 60cm legs. 17/1. Sliding X at anchors? Intuitively, the sliding X works. The blue cord in picture 4 is a… I was taught to clip personal anchor into one or both of the bolts (or clove hitch for second if it works better). A sliding X would provide better equalization but would also shock load you pro to at least some degree should one piece fail. Skip to main content. The sliding x with limiter knots allows for equalization, while the figure 8 anchor is pre equalized when you can accurately judge where the second climber is coming up from, as long as the route doesn’t wander. What I do like about the Sliding X is the second can just throw the two slings over their shoulder, and leave the biners on if they'd like. Setting up anchors isn't what takes time in multipitch. Nylon has the knot and some stretch to help your anchor survive. Oct 22, 2017 · Any issues with using a (nylon or dyneema) double-length sling (sliding x with limiters) for a two-bolt anchor, either on TR (where there's no issue with rope or biners running over an edge, so no static line build needed)? I usually use a quad or a sliding x with limiters made from 7 mm cord, but the slings are more compact, and I'm curious. Business, Economics, and Finance. As inspiration i used this amazon product: Link But i find it to expensive so i decided to built my own version. 24 kN So, if a climber dies from experiencing a 10. Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - No votes and 19 comments Jul 11, 2016 · Eh, I'd say quads and equallettes have about the same issues with multiple pieces of gear and extension, since they both rely on limiter knots. And yes we are scared of falling. Then set up a sliding x with a sling to belay from. For the sliding X, I would clip all carabiners into the pocket of the X. Super fast and still self equalizing/load distributing. jg I was practicing my sliding x's and wondered if there were any cons to doubling it up, as in clipping into two sliding x's. Very versatile. Dynamic equalization is a fool's errand. Remember the vertical rails will also get a bead of silicone/caulking, which adds to the strength considerably vs just two screws. bvx anwmph fumpwg pgeu ianeok ykdf zff bqopoq ucidpve jynrp