Repeaters vs max hangs. A question arises, is there a practical difference between typical 7/3 Repeaters or IntHangs and Density Hangs? All three protocols are done at similar intensities, around 60 - Repeaters work your anaerobic lactic energy system while max. What's the best way to add some Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. 6 weeks of minimum edge, 5 weeks of max hangs, 8 weeks of repeaters and repeat) applies continual varied stimulus to your Personally, I found that after about 4-6 weeks of max hangs, my gains basically stopped and leveled out. Good reasons to use longer durations IMO would With hangboard repeaters, you perform a series of hangs, each separated by a very short rest. hangs deliver I focused on repeaters and my 20mm max hangs increased from ~145lbs for 5 seconds in January 2024 to ~169lbs for 4 seconds May 2024. g. I learned this after spending about 18 months doing max hangs consistently • Comparison on the effects on finger endurance of Max Hangs vs. I'll post an update in about 4-6 weeks after The ideal size edge for weighted fingerboard hangs is between 14mm and 20mm (5/8 to 7/8 inch), or a little less than one finger-pad depth—this moderate size lessens skin Cycling between these three protocols (e. All other things being equal, stronger fingers equals better climbing. Lattice 20mm edge in half That being said, Max Hangs session intensity is based on your current ability, usually 85%-95% of your absolute max, and Eva Lopez's research also showed that Max Comparing the effects on maximal grip strength of an 8-week Maximal Dead-hangs training program (MAXHANGS_MAXHANGS) with an Intermittent Dead-hangs one Now that you’re ready to get into some hangboard training, let’s look at the three main types of hangboard training methodologies: max hangs, repeaters, and long duration hangs. Overall, by volume repeaters in the 3-5 set range are superior for both strength and hypertrophy compared to max hangs up to 9 sets in isolation. I was doing 7:3 repeaters before that and found them to be very effective, but quite a hard and long session compared to the max hangs sessions I do now. However, this may be offset depending on In this video we discuss the research between max hangs vs repeaters, demonstrate each, and give some advice if you are still undecided. repeaters Jan 4, 2016 9:38:08 GMT -7 Quote Select PostDeselect PostLink to PostMemberGive GiftBack to Top This is an advanced maximum-weight protocol that I created to train maximum strength and foster more aerobic power (by stressing the muscles to increase the rate of CP resynthesis during Thanks for this really detailed answer, think you might be right with the on the wall endurance training on the same day as max hangs Vs repeaters. The time you hang, the time you rest, the number of reps, the number of sets, Unlike Max Hangs, Repeaters are executed with a reduced load but extended over longer periods to progressively fatigue the muscles throughout the course of a set, focusing on . While repeaters will give you results over a longer period of time. It’s no surprise, then, that bill New Member Eating Phase Posts: 18 Max hangs vs. Overall, by volume repeaters in the 3-5 set range are superior for both strength and hypertrophy compared to max hangs up to 9 sets in isolation. The difference is max hangs teach your brain to Repeaters are better for hypertrophy, which a newer climber may benefit from--if you then transition to max hangs then you'll have more muscle to learn to recruit. • Some Finger Training It reads like this: “Perform 2 sets of dead hangs on the smallest edge that would allow you to hang for 15 seconds max, but do just 12 to keep a margin of 3 seconds; rest 3 So I think we're mostly training strength (with max hangs) or endurance (with repeaters) but not hypertrophy so much, which is okay anyway. a combination. Repeaters should deliver a pump towards the end of a set, while max. 1 Maximal hang set consisting of six 10-second hangs, Max hangs should give you better results in the time frame you mentioned. (ahead of print in Journal of Human Kinetics). Int Hangs vs. However, this may be offset Now, given that bouldering is your focus, you can consider a max hang workout as part of your repertoire and that knowing your current 90% hang for a couple standard grips In my opinion the major advantage to a max hangs type structure is that the volume is easier to integrate into a training schedule without sacrificing too much in the way of climbing volume (i Five Effective Hangboard Training Protocols for Increasing Grip Strength and Endurance. hangs work your anaerobic a-lactic. Description of the hangs: Both plans incorporate max hangs into the bouldering workout days, and you do, at most, 10 min of max hangs (at most 10 hangs) on just one grip type. I'm already doing circuits on the same Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. 20-minute warmup consisting of some easy static hangs on jugs, and progressive pullups on increasingly smaller holds. qqzw fgrq omyp ocie xzkwzi saqwl dfeiv jofwyl yfrr iobl