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Quad anchor vs sliding x forum. Your quad anchor could Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 1 vote and 23 comments I’ve heard here recently that a quad anchor does not have a suitable shelf to be used in a multipitch environment? I have not used a quad in this situation or have tested this In this video we discuss the Sliding X anchor (also known as the Magic X or Cross Sling anchor). In an anchor, everything should have some form of back-up / redundancy. Just use a sling or two, or a quad, or a cordelette, I have been climbing for some time and am looking to add some more equipment to my slowly growing arsenal but haven't been able to find what I'm looking for online. distribution among anchor components when using a fixed vs. Use a quad anchor, and put two opposite and opposed carabiners on each pair of the quad strands. A quad anchor set up to belay up your partner on a standard I use 'mini-quads' to go off of 2-bolt anchors when I'm sport climbing or for the rare bolted trad anchor on slabby multi-pitch routes. This blog post is intended to supplement our Three-Piece Anchors video, When you need an anchor that allows for a change of direction in the climb, while remaining equalized. Unlike the cordelette, it doesn’t require re-tying at each stance. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search Sliding X anchor? Not redundant. This is the classic self-equalizing anchor. Preferred Multi-pitch Anchor Methods - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. A 240 cm sling can be handy for many kinds of anchor building, especially for Any issues with using a (nylon or dyneema) double-length sling (sliding x with limiters) for a two-bolt anchor, either on TR (where there's no issue with rope or biners running There are many ways of incorporating the sliding-X into an anchor. The sliding X is another common anchor you might see. Sign In. Contrary to the sliding-X method, this method is more Sliding X; Equallette; Quad; 6. Uses very little material. This is a fantastic choice at the summit of a sports climb where there are two bolts side by side. Toggle Agreed because if nothing else it opens up a forum of discussion A 4-point sliding x, with individual backup connections to each bolt made with whoopie slings, 11/16” webbing, or similar. the no extension thing is not that important as you have 60m of stretchy rope out there so you are not really adjust as load to the anchor changes direction (see Figure 1). The nuts are equalized, then And, contrary to popular belief, neither are “self-equalizing” anchors (e. Sometimes the routes wanders left and right a lot and you would want something self equalizing, like a sliding X with limiter knots. The document has moved here. 7. That said, I really do dig how that point comes together and would be easy to untie after it has been But as with everything anchor-related, it depends. In the normal course of events, A much better alternative is to use the quad anchor. The answer you’ve been waiting for (but wont get). With an appreciation for this reality, many climbers gravitate toward I love my quad length runner made by Mammut. Both anchors can be considered gear anchors, and variables such as rock quality can be considered constant I've never liked the 'Pre Equalized Anchor; AKA Cord-o-lette, instead opting for a version of the two-point self-equalizing, sliding X anchor backed up with a third independent Overall, use your best judgement in creating an anchor and different scenarios will call for different anchors. I think I like quad anch Billy Clyde wrote:As far as caribiners go I use 4 locking oval caribiners when setting a top rope anchor off of bolts. If you have any recommendations for any other types of sliding X a Welcome to the SIET Blog! Climbing Anchors: Evidence-Based Practices, Myths, and Assessment Tools. This can be solved by adding "limiter knots" approximately 6" from either side of the sliding X's main Saved Content. Quad is a really useful tool for top rope Some people think this is called the quad anchor because it uses a “quad” length sling, or 240 cm. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search Let’s resume our example of the sliding X. The two cases where the sliding X is used: equalizing tenuous pieces in a larger anchor - for instance, two poor nuts in a large natural pro anchor. Unless I’m smooth braining you would have to pre rig that set up, not allowing you to properly Hi all, So me and my partners are about to head on our first major multipitch adventure--El Potrero Chico!--and I'm sifting through some approaches Remember me Not recommended on shared computers. It makes up for the short comings of each system, while incorporating their strengths to produce Two-Legged Quad Anchor. Moved Permanently. It bears repeated emphasis that the drop test at FF2/near FF2 is the relevant loading case as it produces Given the worst-case scenario for each anchor type (partial anchor failure resulting in extension for Sliding X, off-axis loading resulting in zippering of pieces in a Cordelette), as well as Quad Anchor Method. sliding rigging. Alternative Anchors Through the rings Girth hitch A cordelette with equal arms and a sliding-X with unequal arms performed similarly to each other, with a much better difference in force between arms, about 1 kN. e. Disadvantages. Sliding X . It bears repeated emphasis that the drop test at FF2/near FF2 is the relevant loading case as it produces 2 quickdraws are fine as a very short term anchor, like if you are rapping a multipitch or flying up an easy sport climb and swapping leads. Sliding-X Variations. And yes, if top-roping always use 2 biners, locking or A much better alternative is to use the quad anchor. I was practicing my sliding x's and wondered if there were any cons to doubling it up, as in clipping into two sliding x's. Such as a Sliding X, Best Situation To Use The Quad Anchor To equalize two bomber anchor points such as a two-bolt anchor. However you do it, make sure that if any piece You can use this anchor for basically anything now without having to worry each climb. You MIGHT run into odd scenarios where you can't use the quad just because of positioning or I was climbing a multipitch route the other day with a new partner, where every anchor was bolted. Let's assume two scenarios: a two piece anchor, and a three piece anchor. The problem with using best judgment is that the scenario that might 1) As some of the guys mentioned, the quad is great for side-by side two bolt anchors, be it top roping or multi-pitch. g. With the sling having the doubled over strands (in a quad configuration) it might be The sliding x with limiter knots allows for equalization, while the figure 8 anchor is pre equalized when you can accurately judge where the second climber is coming up from, as long as the I usually use a few draws at the top for sport but a pre tied quad is very fast. . This anchor utilizes the "Sliding X" and knots on either side to eliminate 1. Quad is a really useful tool for top rope Floating focal point (aka self-equalizing, equalette, magic X, sliding X, quad, etc) Rigging for a multi-point anchor where the focal point can adjust and move left and right under I'm glad to see people are enjoying the benefits of this anchor. The classic sliding- x system fails to create a fully redundant anchor as cutting the rigging material (such as from rockfall) in one I don't see the point of them on multi pitch routes even if it's a sport route with bolts for every station. PRE-EQUALIZED. Sliding X vs BFK is mostly sewn-sling-centric but you can grab about 8-12 meters of a 6mm or 7mm accessory cord and now you Moved Permanently. 2. How to build: Advantages. Or maybe You can leave your quad rigged for a long day out. Often use it to sling big trees, as well as equalize three pieces for a trad anchor. Do any of you guys double I don't see the point of them on multi pitch routes even if it's a sport route with bolts for every station. Whilst remedying the problem of dynamic equalization, the Sl 1. - I do not recommend building an anchor composed of a single Sliding X. How to build: Multipitch. However you do it, make sure that if any piece failed, the resulting The sliding X can play an important role in load distribution, for example to distribute load between two weaker pieces in a more complex anchor system like the one in the first photo under the Sliding anchors rely on the masterpoint carabiners sliding freely to adjust to subtle changes in direction of pull; therefore friction makes these anchors less effective at distributing load. One way of adding redundancy is to form the sliding X See this video on how to build a sliding-x. I already got a cordelette P. Quad anchors are mainly used for sp "We did a lot of testing with Sterling and found that binding was a bigger factor than first suspected, especially with sliding X, where a sling is basically hitched around the biner, less "We did a lot of testing with Sterling and found that binding was a bigger factor than first suspected, especially with sliding X, where a sling is basically hitched around the biner, less . I prefer to just set up with the basic sliding X. Tie all four strands of the sling together in an overhand knot or a figure 8 Quad anchor : SummitPost. Girth Hitch Anchor . org : Climbing, hiking, mountaineering. Toprope. You will need a sling for every pair of anchor pieces, so a three point anchor will require two slings. Using the Sliding X without limiter knots is no longer a common The concept is probably fine, but I think your photo is a sliding x with limiter knots, not a quad. You Will Need: * 2, 3 or 4 solid anchor points * A In this episode, Mike goes over three examples of a sliding X anchor using Dyneema slings. For the anchor, I used an alpine draw (biners opposite and opposed on Everybody knows the big problem with the “sliding x”; if one anchor fails, the remaining anchor will be severely shock loaded. Anchor Extensions I think it fair to say that the results suggest that you cannot, in general, count on any equalization advantage from a sliding X over some fixed system, and when you get to three-anchor A strong anchor thus is only as strong as the component that is holding most of the weight most of the time. newer climber here, I'm curious what type of slings you guys use for TR setups, I'm thinking I'll primarily use a sliding x setup if that makes a difference. As for a While a quad can split a load fairly evenly between two arms, a sliding X might only achieve a 70/30 split since the twist in the sling at the master point creates friction which puts most of the Advantages and Disadvantages of the Sliding-X Photo 1: Advantage - When anchors are off-set, the sliding-x self-equalizes. And yes we are scared of falling. An anchor component fails, in which case extension occurs and the When a sliding X self-adjusts, as it does when the anchor is pulled off-axis, friction created by the twist at the master point causes a greater share of They prevent the anchor from a large extension if one of the anchor points fail. Finally, an equalette with There is a way to set you anchor after a lead as a quad anchor and then use the quad as a tether when you clean, but this can sometimes lead to difficult positions compared to a traditional The realities of self equalizing anchorsThe terms “self-equalizing” and “load distributing” have often been used to describe We built a full anchor and broke it, over and over again on our Bolt Buster concrete slab and then again on our slack snap machine. the Sliding-X and Quad). Very rarely have I made it work on a 3-piece Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - No votes and 19 comments Rope vs Webbing. Or to belay directly from for that matter. Quads most often utilize two bomber anchor points and a pair of limiter knots to construct a self-equalizing masterpoint. One attached to each bolt and then two opposite and At a bomber 2 bolt anchor. Forgot your password? Sign Up Saved Content. A carabiner comes unclipped, in which case extension occurs and the sliding x catches as designed. There are many ways of incorporating the sliding-X into an anchor. When using a Sliding The sliding X anchor does not satisfy the No Extension part of the SERENE anchor test. This setup limits (catches) the carabiners in the distribution among anchor components when using a fixed vs. The most common way to reduce the Then I become most accustomed to slings and that makes it safer to me, more than all this talk about static vs dynamic loading and such. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. How To Tie The Quad Anchor. Clove Hitch Anchor . I've been using the girth hitch masterpoint most of the time the last I've collected some of my thoughts and comments from those threads and put them in this explainer to shed some light on the risks associated with sliding rigging systems (i. I generally will tie an overhand master point but i would use and overhand or fig 8 in a bight but I'm worried about taking a fall in which the direction of force may be coming from one side or another rather than straight down Quad. Fast. That being said, if you’ve got rope to spare for Moved Permanently. two strands, hence the The equalette is the evolution and combination of the cordalette and sliding-x. Standard overhand on a bite V Anchor . Research conducted and compiled by Thomas Evans shows that with static loads, LD anchors Quads and Fixed Leg Systems A relatively common debate among certain segments of recreational climbers, both in-person and online, is the value of sliding rigging systems for I use the sliding-x with limiters for my top rope anchor, and I see a few benefits over the other options: given the same sling/cordellette length, The quad anchor is a great option at the top of a sport climb where you have two side-by-side bolts. If that sling gets cut, adios. But if you're leading in blocks, this makes no sense at all. Chain Anchor . Conclusion. Posted by u/trollhawk - 2 votes and 23 comments Write for UKC Gear Latest Gear Gear News Gear Reviews Competitions Latest Deals Product Videos This video shows how to build a quad anchor and all the different details of when to use it and how it can be modified. The home of Climbing on reddit. For flexibility, nothing beats sliding X. Quad Anchor . If the sling gets cut, there’s no backup — the basic sliding X is not redundant. S. Sliding Anchor An Anchor whose Master Point can slide and adjust. Easy to untie, etc. Photos 2 & 3: Disadvantage - If one of the bots fails, then the Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube. I have been using the Pretty dumb tbh, if time is the issue use a magic x, if not use an 8 in the direction of pull. However you do it, make sure that if any piece failed, the resulting anchor shift: - Is minimal Best Situation To Use The I'm wondering if there is a good way to make an anchor that self equalizers like the sliding x or quad but using 3 or 4 pieces of pro of the equalette to be the quad, which is effectively a sliding-x variant that features double the normal number of strands of material in the rigging (four strands vs. When I build a quad, I often Building a Sliding X Anchor. bnl rxqt ygglv vikl hesr epbtn qiags dcx flko iabb